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Waterford – steeped in Viking history
 One
of the oldest inhabited settlements in Ireland, the past lurks round every
corner of Waterford. Burnt to the ground on four separate occasions (which
is impressive even by Irish standards), its hills and alleyways have seen
the Dominicans found their friary, gangs of labourers drag rough hewn
stones across the Suir to build the city’s walls and the pretenders
to the British throne, Perkin Warbeck and Lambert Simnel mass with their
forces outside the city gates.
All gone now, but not before leaving their indelible mark on this dramatic
city.
Waterford is best discovered on foot. Stroll round the ancient walls
originally built by Reginald the Viking. He was the grandson of Ivor the
Boneless and established his ‘longphort’ here which in time
evolved into the modern city.
You can’t really miss Reginald’s Tower probably the oldest
urban monument in Ireland. This stone bastion has its own mini-history
in bygone days Viking prisoners were held here and perhaps more significantly,
in the grand scheme of Irish things, it’s where the Anglo-Norman
lord, Strongbow, first met Aoife the daughter of the deposed King of Leinster.
Kings, princes, blaggards and villains have visited this place on every
errand imaginable.
Even if it’s a fine soft day bucketing down as happens from time
to time around Ireland’s coastal regions there’s plenty of
diversion to be had in Waterford. Chief among these is the Waterford Crystal
works, fully equipped with visitor centre and tour facilities.
You’ll hear the entire story of Waterford Crystal from its beginnings
in the 18th century to its current position as the brand leaders in the
glass world. And what a compelling story it is, including marital infidelity,
industrial espionage, governmental perfidy and unpaid debts resulting
in the handing over of the exact recipe of the product. Put it on at the
National Theatre and it could pass for a Beckett plot.
At the factory you’ll see craftsmen in front of roaring furnaces
transform molten crystal into elegant, intricate shapes. The raw materials
potash, enamel, silica and lead should you want to try it at home are
heated, blown, shaped and engraved by an army of craftsmen. Naturally
enough you get a chance to purchase their wares. There’s a knick-knack
for every budget, from crystal chandeliers costing something northwards
of €60,000, to some very sleek, Rocha-designed wine glasses a snip at
€100 for four. (tel: 00 353 51 35 356821).
The county of Waterford, like the city, has been marked with the imprint
of Celts, Vikings and Normans.
The area round Dungarvan made an excellent bridgehead for the Vikings
when they first visited the country and for today’s more benign
visitor it still represents a fine base for discovering the county. The
town nestles beneath the Knockmealdown Mountains and is a first-class
holiday resort in its own right. The craic is seldom less than ninety,
and it boasts one of the world’s few statues dedicated to a greyhound
Master McGrath himself. Go along and pay your respects the statue is just
outside the town where the Cappoquin and Clonmel roads fork.
Fishing is one of the big sports hereabouts. Deep-sea and in-shore angling
are particularly good in the Dungarvan area, and fully equipped boats
are available to catch pollock, cod, coalfish, conger, ling, mackerel
and even shark. Coarse fishing nearby might land you a salmon or trout,
but if you’re out of luck you’ll find plenty available in
the restaurants, pubs and hotels nearby.
Beaches there are a-plenty. Clonea, with its soft golden sand and less
than two miles from the centre of town, deserves particular mention, although
all down the coast are sandy beaches, golden strands and sheltered coves.
A good way to get your bearings in Waterford is to drive along the South
East Coastal Drive. South-west from Dungarvan lies the Gaeltacht area,
An Rhinn, where summer courses in the Irish language are held. Further
out on the peninsula is Helvick Head, which sounds as if it requires it
is quintessentially Irish, with 500 miles of the angry Atlantic and a
million sea birds between you and the north coast of Spain. And keep your
eyes peeled, fact fans: Ireland’s last Great Auk was spotted hereabouts
in the 19th century.
In the absence of any exotic bird-life drive along the coast to the
ruins of the 7th century monastic settlement founded by St. Declan the
man who brought the Gospel to Waterford, made his excuses, and stayed.
From Dungarvan you can head north on the R675 to Stradbally (Stráid
Baile) a village with medieval origins, nestling between the Comeragh
Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. Within walking distance of the village
is the spectacular Stradbally Cove and a short drive away are the equally
dramatic and stunning coves of Ballyvooney and Ballydwane.
The drive continues along the Copper Coast with its glorious views and
invitingly sandy beaches. The road wends through the villages of Bunmahon,
Boatstrand, Dunhill, Annestown and Fenor, and finally into the seaside
resort of Tramore just short of the Wexford border. The last resort, in
a manner of speaking. Tramore is rightly famous for its strand, and on
a day when the sun shines, the sea can be as gentle as a May meadow. And
it’s a fact that this is one of the sunniest corners of Ireland.
Occasionally, however, the ocean performs its riotous party piece and
transforms the coast into a seething gigantic jacuzzi.
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