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Rare Ould Tunes in the Fair City
 Handel’s
Messiah had its world premier in Dublin, way back in 1742 on Fishamble
Street.
An unlikely sounding place for the unveiling of one of western music’s
big set pieces you may think but way back then Dublin was an intensely
musical city indeed there are many who believe that the depth of Irish
traditional music owes as much to this period of classical infusion as
it does to any Celtic roots.
Everything from rock to baroque is still available in the capital but
of course what Dublin is famous for — aside from U2, Thin Lizzy
and Bob Geldof is traditional music.
Concerts, workshops, libraries and of course endless pub sessions are
devoted to what many regard as one of the finest expressions of folk culture
in Europe.
- Irish Traditional Music Archive
73 Merrion Square,
Dublin 2
Tel: 00 353 661 9699
www.itma.ie
For formal appreciation of Ireland’s indigenous music, head for
the Irish Traditional Music Archive. This reference archive and resource
centre now holds the largest collection of Irish traditional music in
existence.
It is extremely difficult to know what music our ancestors played as Irish
music wasn’t written down until the 17th century but it’s
a fair bet the music played by those ancient Celts bore little resemblance
to the digitally enhanced recordings of Enya or Clannad.
But if there are any clues as to the ancient roots of the music you’ll
find it here.
Importantly the Archive contains much information on the development of
‘the session’ in Britain believed by many to be the cradle
of the form, more so even than Dublin.
Other parts of the Diaspora are also covered the USA, Canada, Australia
and Scotland.
Rare recordings of some of the seminal names in traditional music are
available to listen to — Séamus Ennis, Patsy Tuohey, the
Doran Brothers and Michael Coleman — as well as footage of early
20th century appearances. And not an interactive video screen in sight.
10am-5pm Monday-Friday,
Admission free. - Cultúrlann na hÉireann
32 Belgrave Square, Monkstown, Dublin
www.comhaltas.ie
Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann is the official body
which keeps its eye on Irish traditional music.
Their job is to promote and preserve the vernacular music (in Ireland,
Britain and throughout the Diaspora) and to that end they regularly present
concerts of regional traditional music at their Dublin headquarters.
The shop is also worth browsing through for that elusive tune, book, tape
or CD. Shop till you bop really. Staff are happy to deal with visitors’
queries about sessions, music etc.
DART to Seapoint Station, bus 7A from city centre.
- Walton’s
2 North Frederick Street, Dublin 1
Tel: 00 353 874 7805
or 69 South Georges Street, Dublin 2
Tel: 00 353 475-0661
www.waltons.ie
Walton’s is a venerable institution which has been serving the needs
of Ireland’s musicians for the last 80 years or so.
Whether it’s a bodhran stick or a one-day lesson to brush up on
your uilleann piping, Walton’s will be able to help.
9am-6pm Monday-Saturday
12-5pm Sunday (Georges St. only) - Oliver St. John Gogarty’s
58/59 Fleet Street,
Temple Bar,
Dublin 2
Tel: 00 353 671 1822
www.gogartys.ie
Oliver St. John Gogarty was a friend of James Joyce’s and indeed
was the model for Buck Mulligan in Ulysses.
The pub named in his honour would
undoubtedly meet with his approval.
Live traditional music sessions tear away at full throttle every day from
2.30pm until 2.30am (1am on Sundays). This is also the starting off point
for the Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl [see below].
- Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl
Meet at Oliver St. John Gogarty’s,
Fleet Street,
Temple Bar, Dublin 2
Tel: 00 353 475 3313
www.discoverdublin.ie
The Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl is led by two professional musicians
who perform tunes and songs while telling the
story of Irish music from the days of the harp-playing bards right up
to Riverdance.
7.30-10pm Thursday-Saturday
€12/concs €1.
- O’Donoghue’s
15 Merrion Row,
Dublin 2
Tel: 00 353 660 7194
www.odonoghues.ie
The epicentre of Irish
folk music for the last 50 years, O’Donoghue’s was the home
ground of The Dubliners.
It was here that Luke Kelly christened the band — after Joyce’s
book — and it was here that Christy Moore contemplated the moves
that would confirm Irish music as the unparalleled brand leader of ethnic
music in Europe.
Sessions continue unabated — in fact, it may be the same one that
started way back half-a-century ago.
This is also the Dublin seat of operations for many Irish and visiting
rugby fans.
- The Brazen Head
20 Bridge Street,
Dublin 8
Tel: 00 353 677 9549
www.brazenhead.com
The Brazen Head is Ireland’s oldest pub dating back to 1198.
Famous pub-goers here have included Joyce, Behan,
Wolfe Tone and Michael Collins.
Whether they all tried the lunchtime menu of just-hauled-out-of-the-water
seafood is difficult to say but they couldn’t have failed to enjoy
the nightly ballad sessions.
Joyce declared that “you get a decent enough do in the Brazen Head”.
- Knightsbridge Bar at The Arlington Hotel
23-25 Bachelor’s Walk, O’Connell Bridge,
Dublin 1
Tel: 00 353 804 9100
www.arlington.ie
With the Dury’s Cabaret having finally closed this summer, a niche
has opened up at the Paddywhackeray end of the market.
Some offerings are slightly less cringe-making than others.
The Knightsbridge employs first-rate musicians, elegant dancers —
and keeps the dreadfully unfunny Irish jokes, beloved of Jury’s,
to a minimum.
But you’re still more likely to hear Molly Malone than a decent
pipe tune like Within A Mile Of Dublin.
- The Abbey Tavern
Abbey Street,
Howth,
Dublin 13
Tel: 00 353 839 0307
www.abbeytavern.ie
The 16th century Abbey Tavern features the renowned Abbey Tavern singers
and musicians; in days gone by it was host to the Dubliners in their formative
years.
The Abbey singers are professional and can be a bit anodyne — but
a good pint with fine views of the harbour and terrific seafood platters
is more than adequate compensation for the Oirishness of proceedings.
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