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Nothing faulty in Basel
Malcolm Rogers
 Let’s
get one thing clear. There’s more to Switzerland than Alpine meadows,
views of the type to make even the most committed atheist reconsider,
and some of the most delicious chocolate on offer anywhere.
It would, however, be fair to point out that in a recent survey three
of the world’s top 10 panoramas were adjudged to be in Switzerland,
and the country remains — along with Austria and Belgium —
one of the world’s chocolate superpowers. But even for the most
committed view junkie or calorie-seeker there is much more.
For instance, if you’ve still got a little tricky Crimbo shopping
to do, then here’s a spot of good news for you. Switzerland’s
largest Christmas market, in Basel (aka Basle), stays open until December
24.
And there’s further seasonal good cheer: One of Europe’s
top hotels, Les Trois Rois, has a terrific deal up for the next few weeks.
All this in the city which once came up with such a mind-blowing idea
that the world is still coming to terms with it.
But more of that anon. Try this for a more contemporary mind-blowing
idea — a one night stay in the five star Les Trois Rois overlooking
the Rhine will cost you and your partner 725 Swiss francs, or about Stg300
— and that includes breakfast, afternoon tea, dinner etc (see below
for full details).
Les Trois Rois in the title, by the way, date back to 1026, the year that
the hotel hosted Emperor Conrad II, his son Heinrich III and Rudolf III
of Burgundy. The three kings were having B&B here to thrash out which
empire to throw their lot in with. Evidently they made a good decision,
because the citizens of Switzerland — basically a bunch of German,
Italian and French hill-farmers living on the side of a mountain —
banded together to create the richest nation on earth. Not surprisingly,
most of the crowned heads of Europe have crashed at Les Trois Rois since
then.
Outside the laid-back lustre of the hotel, a Christmas card scene awaits.
Basel’s seasonal market is surrounded by illuminated pine trees,
lined with wooden stalls brimming over with Crimbo goodies, bustling with
classy Swiss citizens quaffing mulled wine — all with a wrap-around
aroma of Christmas spices. Chocolates, cherubs and cheer in equal measure.
Shopping in Basel means never having to practise shelf-denial —
the longest illuminated street in Europe features top class outlets and
exclusive boutiques (Hermes, Armani — enough to make any credit
card melt) as well as classy little boutiques selling local swag. The
Christmas House by Johann Wanner is a world famous specialist Christmas
store packed full with trimmings, ornaments, knick-knacks — if you’re
half human, half shopping trolley, you’ll love it.
Right in the heart of the Old Town, the Spalenberg is similarly stuffed
with intriguing retail opportunities — everything from millinery
to jewellery, including the very best of Basel’s bling.
Of course you don’t have to have Christmas in mind to visit Basel.
The hotel itself is probably reason enough. While Ireland was entertaining
yet another set of invaders (this time the Normans) the people in this
neck of the woods were quietly getting on with what they have become renowned
for: Entertaining travellers.
The present Les Trois Rois hotel building, although not dating back to
the 11th century, is still the oldest city hotel in Europe. Naturally
enough you get a blast of old imperial Europe throughout these top drawer
digs — ornate public rooms, an elegant atrium with gigantic chandeliers,
and bedrooms with luxurious, period furniture. If you’re doing up
a house, don’t bother buying glossy interiors magazines for inspiration
— come and stay here.
Despite this resonance of the Belle Epoque and gracious living from the
past, however, the rooms are discreetly equipped with cutting edge technology.
Everything from DVDs to internet access.
In the public areas more eyebrow raisers await. The bar, regularly used
by local Basel people, is so cool that you’d probably fall in love
with the Hunchback of Notre Dame if he brought you here.
Thank God it’s Friday. On a dreary Friday afternoon in April 16,
1943, in the laboratory of one of Basel’s major pharmaceutical companies,
Sandoz, a 37-year-old researcher was still at work. Dr Albert Hoffman
was nearing the end of his day experimenting on a piece of fungus from
which he hoped to extract a cure for migraine. But he started feeling
a bit odd, and decided to call it a day.
He went home, lay down, and in his own words, “saw an uninterrupted
stream of fantastic pictures, extraordinary shape with intense, kaleidoscopic
play of colours.” What our Albert had discovered wasn’t a
cure for headaches, of course, but LSD (eventually leading to the manufacture
of ecstasy), which he’d absorbed through the skin of his fingertips.
Don’t try this one at home, folks! Instead, have a wander through
the city and soak up Basel’s glittering medieval past, endowed with
some of the greatest minds of European philosophy — Nietzche, Holbien
and Erasmus to name just a few. It makes you think.
On the other hand you might want to walk along the Rhine which makes a
lazy right-hand turn on its way through the centre of the city. On the
south/west bank lies the Old Town with all its glitzy shopping streets.
Leading off either side are steep lanes where you’ll find leafy
courtyards, medieval churches and snug coffee houses. And if you’re
feeling adventurous (although it won’t require any terrific effort,
merely your passport) you could walk to France which is about a mile to
the north, or hop over to Germany, about a two mile stroll away.
Very accommodating. The Les Trois Rois package for two consists of:
- one night in a deluxe double room with romantic Rhine river view guaranteed
- sumptuous breakfast buffet
- festive afternoon tea in the hotel
- 3 course dinner at the hotel’s award winning French brasserie
- a special gift from the Johann Wanner Christmas Shop, mulled wine
at the Basel Christmas market
- free public transport round Basel
- free use of the hotel’s sauna and fitness facilities.
The offer lasts until January 7, 2008
Les Trois Rois, Blumenrain 8, CH-4001 Basel
Tel 00 41 61 260 50 50
www.lestroisrois.com
The total cost for the one night package is 725 CHF (approx Stg300).
Additional nights can be booked for 490CHF (around Stg200)
easyJet flies from London Luton to Basel from £19.99 one way (£32.98
return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com
or call 0905 821 0905. |
