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Corkers of towns
MALCOLM ROGERS looks at two of Cork’s finest towns — Skibbereen
and Ballydehob.
 Skibbereen
Location:
On the River Ilen, some 18 miles south-west of Bantry.
History:
Skibbereen has long been a locally important market centre despite being
surrounded by what is usually described in agricultural terms as a desolate
area. Now known as the capital of west Cork it’s the ideal base
from which to discover a garland of beautiful fishing villages which dot
the coast — all within 10-15 minutes’ drive. Baltimore, Glandore,
Union Hall and Castletownshend — all quaint and still remarkably
unspoilt. Sherkin Island and Cape Clear are just minutes by boat from
Baltimore.
Crowded and chaotic in the summer months the town has the air of a prosperous,
not over-touristy, lively place.
It wasn’t ever thus. Because of the barren nature of the surrounding
land the area suffered dreadfully during the famine — possibly the
worst affected in all Ireland. You can still visit poignant famine graves
such as that at Abbeystrewery — about three miles outside town where
up to 10,000 people are buried in a mass grave. This dark era is remembered
at The Great Famine Exhibition at Skibbereen Heritage Centre.
Why you might want to go there:
The land may be just about the poorest you’ll find anywhere but
the scenery is the wildest and most dramatic available in Europe.
Skibbereen is an ideal centre for exploring the rugged countryside of
one of Ireland’s most spectacular areas. Needless to say it’s
an ideal spot for hill-walking — Mount Kid, about four miles outside
the town, has beautiful views across the whole of west Cork.
Being on the edge of the Atlantic also means that sea-anglers, adventurous
sailors and bird watchers are all catered for in some style.
It’s also the home of the West Cork Art Centre — a focus for
the activities of the many artists, craftspeople and writers who live
in the area.
Most spectacular route to get to the town:
Bantry to Ballydehob, then travel east along the N71 to Skibbereen. The
Fastnet Rock Lighthouse looms in the middle-distance. The rock in previous
centuries was the last thing many people ever saw of Ireland — and
for the lucky few who returned the first thing they saw as their ship
approached the old country. It’s often referred to as Ireland’s
Teardrop or the Last Teardrop.
Sundry day trips:
About three miles south-west of the town lies the geographical freak of
Fastnet Rock Lighthouse, a sea lake. Better than that, according to some,
the Hyne is Europe’s only true inland marine lake: A glacier-gouged
lagoon joined to the sea by a narrow umbilical channel. Even more striking
— this is quite simply one of the most impressively beautiful stretches
of water in the world.
Nestling in a fold of hills Lough Hyne is fed from the sea by a narrow
tidal channel known as The Rapids.
Because the temperature of the water in the lake is higher than that of
the surrounding sea — and considerably higher than a freshwater
lough at this latitude should be — this unique place is home to
a rich and varied range of plants and animals, including many rare and
beautiful species. Some of the seaweed would normally be more at home
in the Mediterranean. Despite numerous studies scientists have still to
unearth the mystery why the lough is always some three degrees Centigrade
warmer than the sea.
The water is clear and a carnival of sea life of improbable variety is
compressed along the lough’s shores.
Evening in Skib
With 26 pubs in the town and award-winning restaurants scattered all around,
you’ll not find it difficult to fill up an evening.
Accommodation:
West Cork Hotel, Ilen Street, is the main hotel since the Eldon closed
down and is comfortable and welcoming. Tel 00 353 28 21277.
Skibbereen’s main claim to international fame:
Just over 100 years ago the editor of the Skibbereen Eagle allegedly issued
a famous warning: “The Skibbereen Eagle is keeping its eye on the
Emperor of Russia and on all such despotic enemies.” Unfortunately
a subsequent fire destroyed the Eagle’s offices so an exact transcript
of the full editorial is not available. A sad loss — if only we
had the Eagle now in these fraught times internationally.
Religious significance:
It’s the cathedral town of the Ross Diocese. The Pro-Cathedral,
resplendent in neo-Grecian style, dates back to 1826.
Historical footnote:
Alexander Clarke, a 52-year-old RIC man returning home to his digs in
Skibbereen, was shot dead two days after the terms of the 1921 Truce were
signed. He was the last formal victim of the Troubles of 1919-1921.
Best song about Skibbereen:
Skibbereen, naturally. The Famine provided grim lyrics for the ballad
which opens with as fine a description of the area as you’ll find:
“Oh father dear, I oft-times hear you speak of Erin’s isle
Her lofty hills, her valleys green, her mountains rude and wild
They say she is a lovely land wherein a saint might dwell
So why did you abandon her, the reason to me tell.”
Not so good song about Skibbereen:
Well, it’s not totally about Skibbereen but Johnny Cash’s
Forty Shades Of Green does mention the town. In the song it rhymes with
the word green — but you probably guessed that already.
“I miss the River Shannon and the folks at Skibbereen
The moorlands and meadows and their Forty Shades Of Green.”
 Ballydehob
Location:
About 20 miles east of Mizen Head at the head of Roaring Water Bay.
Aka: The San Francisco of the Mizen Peninsula because of its arty and
hippy image gained in the ’60s and ’70s.
How to get there:
The town is about seven miles south of Bantry, 65 miles west of Cork Airport
and about 180 miles from Dublin. From London it’s 400 miles and
from New York 3,073 miles (bear to the right at Long Island and keep going).
History:
A microcosm of Irish local history and legends and folklore.
At the dawn of the Bronze age (2000BC-600BC) copper (some say gold as
well) were mined on nearby Mount Gabriel. This was also the golden era
of construction work — dolmens, passage graves and Neolithic monuments
— whose purpose we can now only guess at.
The Celts then arrived — or arose, or developed, whichever is your
slant on that episode of Ireland’s history — with various
clans fighting for dominance. The McCarthys and O’Mahonys eventually
became the head honchos.
Kilcoe Castle was the McCarthy’s most westerly stronghold and is
probably
West Cork’s best preserved castle — present owner actor Jeremy
Irons.
The usual suspects then trod a path to West Cork — Normans, Cromwellians,
English settlers, even Huguenots escaping persecution in France.
By the 1840s the population had increased to nearly 20,000. Then disaster
struck — the potato crop failed and famine stalked the land. (See
the Great Famine Exhibition at Skibbereen Heritage Centre.)
Why you might want to go there apart from all that history:
The surrounding area is a hill-walker’s paradise — Mount
Gabriel (1,339 ft) has fine views across the whole area. Also water sports:
There’s a watersports lagoon just outside the village overlooked
by an interesting feature of the “twelve arches” which used
to be a railway bridge for the West Cork Railway line.
Bracing sea air, the tang of the surf and turf in your lungs —
that sort of thing...
Exactly. No better part of Ireland to do it in. There’s a variety
of boating and sailing opportunities, deep sea angling, sightseeing and
ferry trips to Cape Clear and Sherkin, pony trekking etc. deep sea fishing
trips or exclusive boat hire for families or just have a dander to nearby
Audley Cove — a delightful and rarely-crowded beach. You’ll
definitely see seals, probably dolphins and maybe the odd whale. Plus
a million sea birds.
Anywhere you could recommend to stay?
An Carraig Ard Inn, Ardura More, Ballydehob tel: 00 353 28 37000. Bed
and breakfast: e35pps.
And for dining?
Annie’s Restaurant, tel: 00 353 28 37292, comes complete with international
plaudits. Local steaks and seafood. Duggan’s Restaurant on the Main
Street is a friendly family restaurant, tel: 00 353 28 37149 and if you
don’t like eating things with faces, Hudson’s Vegetarian Café,
tel: 00 353 28 37565 provides fresh local produce with a wide variety
of cheeses and organic vegetables.
Needless to say, no shortage of pubs — try Coughlan’s for
ballad sessions.
There’s also a handful of antique and craft shops. |
