| Boycott the Cliffs of Moher
By Cormac MacConnell
I’M telling everybody I write for these days about a proposed rip-off
by the Clare County Council and those related authorities in charge of
the Cliffs of Moher.
I’m advising those proposing to visit one of the greatest Irish
attractions that a brief boycott of the Cliffs might well serve to bring
the authorities to boot and at least reduce the impact of the projected
rip-off.
Basically, as things stand now, it is proposed to impose a charge of
eight euros a head to view the Cliffs in future. The County Council and
the Shannon Development Authority are building a new interpretation center
at the traditional viewing area near the village of Liscannor and, though
I’m not certain of this, the eventual impact for those who undertake
that experience and who park their vehicle in the car park could be even
more than eight euro a head which, near as dammit, is 10 of your dollars.
I consider this a rip-off.
There’s worse. An ad hoc carnival atmosphere has developed around
the fabled Cliffs over the last 20 years or so. There are traders who
have been selling everything from souvenirs to CDs to burgers and chips.
In addition, and more important to the atmosphere, there have been a hardy
corps of buskers there, playing and singing from morning to night. There
have been harps, ballads, accordions, pipes, guitars, the entire range
of music.
The buskers charged you nothing, they simply hoped you would drop something
into the hat or maybe buy their latest CD or tape. They wrapped the mythically
wonderful terrible beauty atop the Cliffs with wreaths of music, with
a mist of it.
Sometimes the great waves down below seemed to be dancing in time. Wonderful.
As I write the authorities have launched a sustained legal campaign aimed
at ejecting both the traders and, crucially, the musicians from the site.
That in my view is nearly criminal.
I’ve said already publicly that what the authorities are doing (and
remember the County Council is an elected body!) is fashioning themselves
into an exceptionally blunt instrument with which to kill the golden goose
of this region’s tourism.
The Almighty put the Cliffs there, in Moher, for free. A few decades ago,
too, that is the way you saw them.
It cost nothing to park your car and walk to the edge of Ireland, below
the old ruined castle, and shiver a little in the brined wind off the
green Atlantic wastes and wonder greatly at the breathtaking majesty of
what filled your eyes to overflowing.
And when you were looking down from above at the flying backs of gulls
and gannets and puffins, the occasional falcon, you needed no interpretation
center at all. The Cliffs of Moher are customized to your mind and to
mine.
They are indeed mind-blowing, to use the modern phrase. It is a sad fact,
related to this, that they are the very last sight that a growing number
of mortal men and women ever see. This very fact, somehow, emphasizes
how inspiring and stimulating they are for the overwhelming majority of
us.
For us they powerfully surf home the power of the elements and their harmonious
beauty, the parameters of our mortalities, the limitless joys of life
and living. The Almighty put them there for us free of charge. Now the
local powers wish to charge us heavily for the privilege.
I had an email last week from somebody wanting the Clare County Council
to be aware that there is no charge for viewing the Niagara Falls! But
this is Ireland.
There has been a nominal car-parking charge for a number of years now.
There has been a small and quite pleasant visitor center of the type that
sold coffee and apple pies and postcards and had a well-maintained toilet
block. That was okay, I suppose.
But now the plan is to spend what will end up at about 30 million euros
on this interpretation center and related facilities and to impose the
range of charges I mention above. The edge of the knife is to the throat
of the golden goose.
I would tell first-time visitors to this lovely region that there are
other points along the coast road where you can have virtually as good
a view of the mighty Cliffs as from the Eight Euro Zone. And you get them
free.
I would tell these people, also, that this is an area in which coffees
and teas and souvenirs (probably better and cheaper) can be purchased
at a wide range of outlets.
I would accordingly advise all of you to be aware of this emerging situation
and to remember the way in which the tenantry of Galway and south Mayo
long ago dealt with the overbearing Captain Boycott. Is a nod as good
as a wink to a Kentucky thoroughbred? I hope it is.
It is especially sad, I think, that the council elected by the musical
people of Clare is now involved very actively in driving the musicians
away from the Cliffs. The traders are a different and hardy breed who
will always find a trading niche and make their money.
But the (free) music around this mighty spot, pagan betimes as it is,
comes from a corps of free spirits, free as the winds that come in from
the bay but also far more brittle and vulnerable than the traders.
They came to play for nothing, hoping to gain something from those who
listened. They provided the background to all that majesty and beauty
and, by being there, added immensely to it.
They did nobody any harm. They actively fed the golden goose.
Which is a helluva lot more than the council is doing.
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