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Irish America magazine - June/July '08 issue: Irish soldiers in Kosovo, Faiths o’ the Irish, Ireland of a Thousand Welcomes?, Finding Home, U2 Have Gone 3D, The House that Hoban built, Straight from the bottle, Keeping it All in the Family, Holy Wells

 
Stephen Rea
He returns to the Abbey stage in a play written for him by Sam Shepard - premiere next June.
 
Irish America's First Family
Before the Kennedys of Boston, there were the Carrolls of Maryland.
 
Clan Harrington
The Barony of Kinalmeaky has one of the highest concentrations of the name.
 
 
Where the Traveling Began

I am standing at the beginning.

Through the break in the green, Irish, country lane, the house is barely visible. I recognize it from the faded black-and-white photo in my grandmother’s dusty album. The windows are broken, the vines have consumed the façade and the neighboring farmer’s cows have claimed residence on the lawn.

But it is beautiful.

The house is worn the same way that my grandmother is worn; the wrinkles and the broken windows tell the story of experience. This house has survived the birth of 10 children, the death of their father, famine and poverty. It has heard the nightly prayers of a kneeling little girl asking God for food, money, and for her mother to sing again. The house has seen the Costellos walk out the front door, leaving for America and the promise of food, money, and happiness.

Fifty-five years later, I travel back to where the traveling began. Car, plane, plane, bus, car, and foot – I arrive in Fohenagh, County Galway. I walk down the lush lane listening to stories being told by my grandmother’s childhood friend, Fr. Gerry Sweeney.

“And this house over here is your cousin Paul, Seamus and Maura’s son, along with Emily, Megan and little Albahe.” Fr. Gerry points down the lane.

“Tom and Mary Sweeney live in the house down that lane over there. Veronica might be home from school; we should drop in for some tea.”

“Oh,” Fr. Gerry pauses as he looks at his watch. “It is almost half past five, I’ll run you over to where your grandmother and I went to primary school, and then I am saying Mass at seven. You’re welcome if you like.”

I am here.

I have traveled through time and arrived at my grandmother’s youth. I stand and stare at her house, and I think to myself – this is real. These people are real. Their kind generosity and their simple, fundamental way of life captivates me.

Something inside of me is awakened, and I feel truly alive. It is amazing to connect our two worlds, so many thoughts about my grandmother run through my head. She ran down this very lane on her way home from school. She looked out of that top left window, now broken, into this very pasture. She picked these yellow wildflowers for her mother.

I duck under the vine blocking the door and enter her house. She sat by this orange-tiled fireplace when it was cold. And she ate dinner at this hand-carved wooden table, cold potatoes. She ran down this steep staircase for Mass every Sunday and grabbed her coat from this rusty hook nailed by the door.

Everything is restored. I see my grandmother’s world through her eyes; the cracks and stains wash away. I enter her world.

This immediate experience is full of clarity. I have come for this, for this moment, for this experience, for this house. I embrace the overwhelming reality that clarifies the significance of life and of the lives of the Costellos who once lived here. I have traveled back to where the traveling began and discovered myself through the eyes of my grandmother.

Meghan Townley graduated from Saint Louis University in May, 2007. She plans to pursue a career in travel writing.

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
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