Malcolm Rogers visited lovely Limerick, home of past glories
and great storytellers.
Where Three hours south west of Dublin.
Nearest Airport Shannon
History
The Vikings arrived in the 10th century to take advantage of the
lowest fording point of the River Shannon.
The Normans came in the 12th and 13th centuries, followed a few
centuries later by the cruel Edward the Bruce and Oliver Cromwell.
Historical Events
In 1691, Patrick Sarsfield surrendered, bringing to an end the Siege
of Limerick — visit the Treaty Stone on Thomond Bridge where a concordant
was signed between Pat and the Williamites.
Although not as famous as the Siege, an event occurred in 1919
which could have had far-reaching consequences for Limerick and
the rest of Europe — but actually didn’t.
A group of workers set up the independent republic of Limerick
Soviet in protest at the British martial law which operated in the
area.
For a while the workers ruled the city, produced newspapers,
issued their own currency and won global publicity. They applied
to join the USSR — but the Soviet authorities didn’t reply, and
two weeks later the new state was no more.
Reasons to Visit
Limerick is the Republic’s third city, and as well as being a microcosm
of Irish history, is a handsome metropolis boasting many fine Georgian
buildings, historical monuments and of course the odd Norman castle.
On the latter point, pay particular attention to the 13th century
St. John’s Castle. Although much altered in later years, the original
edifice is still visible, and you’ll see patches of brickwork —
a testament to the damage inflicted by General Ginkel’s arsenal
in the 1691 siege.
To get to grips with Limerick past and present, check out the
Hunt Museum in Limerick University. This exemplary place starts
at the Bronze Age and proceeds onwards. It’s also great for lunch
— their home-made dishes are a speciality.
Places to Visit
Englishtown, in the old city, still boasts its curving streets of
medieval origins.
A 500-year-old street map would still allow you to find your
way about today.
Marked on the map would be St. Mary’s Cathedral which dominates
this part of the town. Founded in 1194, it provides a wealth of
monuments and artefacts — from biblical texts to 15th century misericords
with their grotesque carvings in black oak.
Recommended Hostelries
None better than the White House Bar in O’Connell Street.
Everyone in Limerick is a storyteller, and you’ll find a heavy
concentration here.
South’s pub, in the centre near The Crescent, is where author
Frank McCourt’s Da used to drink, and featured in the film version
of the novel Angela’s Ashes.
Best song about Limerick
The Limerick Rake, followed by Limerick You’re A lady. Although
as someone memorably said about the latter composition: “Limerick
is like a beautiful woman, alright, but one that’s smoking a fag.”
Another song which features on many a song list is The Forty
Shades of Grey — a cruel and rather unfair reference to the fact
that Limerick sometimes gets rather more than its fair share of
rain.
How other writers described the City...
Brendan Behan described the place as a city of “piety and shite”.
But don’t mention this.
Also best not to mention...
The form of poem called a limerick.
Here’s what the editor of the Limerick Leader had to say about
the style a couple of years back: “I am sick to death of obscure
English towns that exist seemingly for the sole accommodation of
these so-called limerick writers — and even sicker of their residents,
all of whom suffer from physical deformities and spend their time
dismembering relatives at fancy dress balls.”
But if you had to recite one..?
“One day while eating Chinese
I dropped sweet and sour on my knees
My shoes were corroded
My trousers exploded
And I went home in a pair of lychees.”
