Co. Carlow is filled by ancient footsteps, deep lakes and echoes of holy
endeavour, reports Malcolm Rogers.
Maybe it’s because Carlow doesn’t attract the same number of tourists
as Kerry, Cork or Clare, but somehow a feel of old Ireland pervades the place.
It’s an enchanting, often overlooked county — but none the worse for
that. Places to stay abound, loads of pubs are available to linger in, and above
all a countryside to rival the Haute Gironne or the Tuscany uplands. Its past
takes in ancient Gaelic history, the arrival of the Anglo Normans and on through
to the 1798 Rebellion.
Start your journey through history in Carlow town, or Ceatarlach — the
City of the Four Lakes. At the junction of the Burren and Barrow rivers, it
is said that the two rivers once occupied such a large area of ground that four
lakes were formed.
There’s no shortage of heritage and culture here. You can wander round
the environs of the early 13th century Norman castle in the town, or venture
over to Browne’s Hill. This is the largest Neolithic, pre-Christian dolmen
in Ireland — around 3,500 years old. Many stone and bronze axes have also
been found in the area of the town and along the banks of the Barrow river.
Journey throughout the county and you’ll see standing stones, dolmens,
stone forts and burial chambers dating back to 2500 BC.
Moving swiftly forward, in the 5th and 6th centuries Carlow became an important
early Christian centre. Throughout the county monastic settlements were set
up — the beautiful village of St. Mullins, for example, was where St. Moling’s
abbey was founded. There are still some remains of the monastery to be seen
nestling beautifully in countryside which hasn’t changed much in 1500 years.
You’ll be wanting to know more about the afore-mentioned countryside and
what diversions are to be had throughout the county.
Well, there’s fishing in the Barrow, birdwatching along the Burren, rambling
in the Blackstairs. Or perhaps joining the throng at the Carlow Floral Festival,
enjoying a music session at Scragg’s Alley, chatting with locals at the
Teach Dolmain in Tullow Street, or just watching the world go by at the Liberty
Tree in the centre of town. As the locals put it — stalking, hawking, walking,
flocking, rocking, talking or gawking.
The other charms of Carlow are not hard to find. Given its mild climate the
place is a haven for gardens and gardeners.
At Ballyconnell, Tullow, you’ll find the Cottage Garden Herbs, a herb farm
set in a beautiful 19th century farmhouse in the heart of Carlow’s rural
countryside.
Here they’ll give you practical courses in everything, ranging from the
basic principles of organic gardening to cooking sensual vegetarian dishes using
local produce. If that sounds like your cup of herbal tea, then call 00 353
503 56312.
If on the other hand if you just want to stroll around some exquisitely laid
out gardens, call in at Hardymount just up the road (00 353 503 51769).
Here you’ll find a over a hectacre of lawns and shrubs including a walled
garden with herbaceous borders, pergolas and ponds.
If flowers are your particular interest then head for Carlow’s Floral Festival
Trail which takes place from August 16 to August 26. More information can be
got from the Carlow Tourist Board 00 353 503 30411 or 00 353 503 31554.
The towns and villages of Carlow — picturesque places like Clonmore, Hacketstown,
Kildavin and Killeshin — are set in beautiful pastureland. The place couldn’t
be more Irish, with friendliness, and hospitality high on the agenda.
It’s a pastoral place, but with enough charms to guarantee a beautifully
tranquil holiday.
